Arriving (Nepal Post #1)

After a long day of travel (highlighted by a spectacular descent into Doha as the sun rose over the Persian Gulf) I was met in Kathmandu by Hari- a friend of my cousin Pell and my guide for the trek.

Me, Hari, and Hari's son james

After a 6 hour bus ride through surprisingly lush valleys and over roaring rivers we arrived in Pokhara- the jumping off point for most Nepalese outdoor adventures. After a quick walk along the lake and a $2 haircut I settled in for the night with midnight's children.

Woke up early and walked down to a lakeside restaurant for coffee. The lake was still and misty- like squam at 6am in June.

My breath frosted and the lukewarm coffee steamed. And turning back to my hotel I saw the mountains for the first time- wow. Reared back and sheer, distant and implausibly crystalline against the city dust.

We took a local bus (people and a goat on the roof) up and down switchbacks and exited at Nayapol.

This is a map of the route. We started at Birethati, went northwest to Ghorepani (Poon Hill), turned east to Thadapani then Chomrong, then turned northest to Himalaya and the Annapurna Sanctuary (off map). We reversed steps to Chomrong, then went south to Jhinu, before heading to Kyumi and Birethati.

From there we climbed up a gradually narrowing dirt road- past tourist guest houses, dried out rice paddies, buffalo, orange groves, and goats. With the brightly painted houses, goats, and dust it reminded me of the Samaria Gorge on Crete that I hiked with Hen all those years ago.

We reached Tikhedhunga with a few hours of sunlight to spare. I dipped my head in a cold mountain stream (attempts to fully immerse myself were fruitless) and spread out on this beautiful deck with an indescribable cup of chai tea and Midnight's Children.